Current status: getting my work exmh configured to display properly on my home HiDPI screen. Through X forwarding over SSH. Yes, I still use all of X forwarding, exmh, and MH.
(exmh is my most productive way to read my mail, although it's long in the tooth by now. Perhaps emacs mh-e mode would also work well, but I'd have to set that up more or less from scratch for my wacky MH setup.)
My next quest is to figure out how to get TCL/TK to use larger cursors on my HiDPI display, because right now they're miniscule. It's not fatal but it's annoying.
(HiDPI is like that on Unix.)
My guess is that the base X cursors supplied by the X server only come in one size, and clients have to send the server different sized ones if they want them, which come from data files in cursor themes. No theme (on the remote machine) means having to use the base X cursors in some default size, which is tiny on HiDPI.
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