Did some more work in the forge on my current project this morning.

Managed my first collar weld, not exactly the prettiest, but it will do the job.

Failed to braze in the forge (much harder than I thought it was going to be).

Punched and drifted a lovely square hole through 12mm spring steel.

Pieces are in vermiculite to cool slowly as I have some drilling to do on them too, and that's a lot easier when the metal is annealed.

Today I punched the slot in the other end piece, made the key and I think, successfully brazed the spring on the end of the shackle.
There was a slight mishap with the slotted end piece that resulted in a burnt corner (filed off), and the holes for the pins might not line up now, won't know until it finishes cooling.

Then, I need to do another test fit-up, testing everything works, drill holes for the shackle bar, and tidy up the end plates.

Probably another day's work.

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Ok, so here is the project as it stands:

youtu.be/o78qEYfupTA

This is a replica 10th Century padlock. Being my first, it's far from perfect, but it does work. This video is a skeleton view (the barrel is removed to see the workings).
I forged the collar on the shackle in the wrong place so it is possible to lock the key inside, but I have a place to remedy that before final assembly.

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Hmmm, so I did a test fit with the barrel this evening. Everything fits flush, looks really good. Doesn't unlock.

Much fiddling around later, I discover my springs are slightly off-axis, and without the barrel I can twist the key slightly bringing them on-axis and unlocking the lock. With the barrel, it doesn't twist quite enough to do that.

Options are: Heat the shackle and try to twist it straight. Or replace the round barrel with a square one.

Will see which one is less hassle later.

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I set the rivets on the 10th Century padlock today. As an added bonus, it actually works too!

Still a bit warm to hold without gloves, but it unlocked beautifully when I tested it.

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