Weekend plan, roughly:
Finish turning belt for size 18 Lichen inside out.
Apply fusible to facing pieces
Review instructions and see if I need to finish any edges on the facings before sewing.
Start laying up the main coat tonight or tomorrow morning.
Cut and assemble the back of the coat, paying attention to what way the gore hems are oriented this time (I messed it up on both toiles) and adding the CB 'slot' for belt to pass through.
While dealing with the back I also need to make sure I figure out the seam finishes and whether I need to use any binding there. (I think I will? We'll see.)
Cut and assemble the front of the coat, paying attention again to the gore hems and also which way the pockets go (also messed this up on both toiles) and finishing seams as I go.
Cut and set the sleeves, then sew up the sleeve seams and decide what I'm doing with the hems.
I've decided as well to resume the attempt to refit the duster coat pattern from Buckaroo Bobbins, because with the weather turning as fast as it is, I need a waterproof coat that's not heavy or overly warm and that seems the quickest route.
Probably won't do it this weekend, but I am going to try to set some time aside to make up a test piece of the treated canvas to see what my skin thinks.
So, didn't get around to making the tested canvas test piece. And have other stuff to finish up that's probably going to get in the way.
But! I finally got the layout of the size 18 Lichen coat right on the wool. I've already cut the facings in heavy cotton sateen and done their edge finishing, and I made the belt in some of the black canvas.
And, I have cut the back pieces from the wool to start assembly.
I figure this is the best way to prevent the embarassing 'put the gores in the wrong way' problem I've had before. Fewer pieces to manage.
I'm also once again contemplating somehow lining the sleeves and upper body, since there's loads of the heavy sateen left over. I couldn't make heads or tails of the instructions for modifications for lining pieces, so I figure I'll just like... Cut the same thing again, construct, and then flip inside out.
I do also need to think about seam and hem finishes already too.
Turns out the bias binding I bought is very, very light-coloured compared to the wool. So I've caved and cut the original pocket binding piece.
I can still use the bias binding to finish the seams where it'll be easier to do that way, but I'm less sure about the hems. I don't feel like it'll look good with the pale binding, but I'm not sure what else do to to protect the raw edge of the wool.
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