I figure this is the best way to prevent the embarassing 'put the gores in the wrong way' problem I've had before. Fewer pieces to manage.
I'm also once again contemplating somehow lining the sleeves and upper body, since there's loads of the heavy sateen left over. I couldn't make heads or tails of the instructions for modifications for lining pieces, so I figure I'll just like... Cut the same thing again, construct, and then flip inside out.
So, didn't get around to making the tested canvas test piece. And have other stuff to finish up that's probably going to get in the way.
But! I finally got the layout of the size 18 Lichen coat right on the wool. I've already cut the facings in heavy cotton sateen and done their edge finishing, and I made the belt in some of the black canvas.
And, I have cut the back pieces from the wool to start assembly.
I've decided as well to resume the attempt to refit the duster coat pattern from Buckaroo Bobbins, because with the weather turning as fast as it is, I need a waterproof coat that's not heavy or overly warm and that seems the quickest route.
Probably won't do it this weekend, but I am going to try to set some time aside to make up a test piece of the treated canvas to see what my skin thinks.
Put in the facings very very carefully (I'm seriously considering hand-sewing part of the collar even).
Tidy up the hem and figure out how to finish it (I'm thinking blanket stitch, but I'm not sure if my machine does that nicely).
I doubt I'm going to have the coat completely done by Monday, but I'm hoping to at least get the back done without the issues I had with the gores on the toiles.
While dealing with the back I also need to make sure I figure out the seam finishes and whether I need to use any binding there. (I think I will? We'll see.)
Cut and assemble the front of the coat, paying attention again to the gore hems and also which way the pockets go (also messed this up on both toiles) and finishing seams as I go.
Cut and set the sleeves, then sew up the sleeve seams and decide what I'm doing with the hems.
Weekend plan, roughly:
Finish turning belt for size 18 Lichen inside out.
Apply fusible to facing pieces
Review instructions and see if I need to finish any edges on the facings before sewing.
Start laying up the main coat tonight or tomorrow morning.
Cut and assemble the back of the coat, paying attention to what way the gore hems are oriented this time (I messed it up on both toiles) and adding the CB 'slot' for belt to pass through.
It's still frustrating though, and I still really feel like I need to look at another jacket or coat pattern to make sure that I actually have it right.
And there's so much more sewing I want to get finished, but so very little time... I think some public holiday weekends are coming up though, so I might have a chance to put enough time in to something for once.
Essentially, what I wanted was an underlap a bit narrower than what you might do for a double-breasted coat (but enough to improve the rainproofing over a standard button front) and the overlap such that the buttons sit on the CF line. I know, that probably means cutting seperate left and right fronts, but oh well.
I also just realised it would be worth doing a two-piece sleeve since the fabric (cotton canvas) is stiff enough even before waterproofing, and I doubt it softens up much.
I finished the toile of mine last night, and it looks like all I need to do is shorten the sleeves, bring the hem up a bit (so the longest part falls just below my knee instead of almost at my ankles) and take some width out of the waist (so it doesn't paper-bag when belted).
I'm thinking then that I might take a look at the Simplicity 8262 pattern and see if it gives me an idea of what to do with a buttoning front for a coat.
Ugh. Had to give up on the hooded coat pattern after an hour or so because I just cannot figure out how to do the front. I wanted two overlapping sections in front - the outer fastening with buttons, the inner secured with a couple of hook-and-eye fasteners - and I tried just extending the CF horizontally, but it somehow didn't look right.
I'm going to put that on the back burner and try to get the Lichen coats out of the way first.
Instead, I'm going for a knee-length contour seamed coat with a hood, and hopefully inseam pockets as well. I'm doing a small overlap in front with a combo of inner hook-and-eye fasteners and metal buttons for the outer (haven't actually chosen the buttons yet).
The biggest challenge is going to be lining the hood, since I either have to re-treat the neck seam or somehow sew in the hood lining after construction.
I decided against the duster coat though. While I'm not exactly opposed to doing what I have to in order to make a pattern (that being only using the Buckaroo Bobbins pattern for some guidance on drafting and the assembly instructions), what I really need is a coat with a hood. And I just don't think it'll look good that way.
The last dress in the series is going to be with a different neckline (torn between boat neck or doing a slight scoop neck) with lace-up sleeves and hopefully a full-length hem.
In the meantime, I finally got my hands on some black linen to make some Eastwood pants for myself. I'm still going to use some cheap printed cotton flannelette for the test pair, but if those turn out then it's fancy tracksuit pants time!
Phew, it's been a while...
I've mostly finished the grey wool dress and will try to get photos at some point. Sleeves didn't quite turn out how I wanted shape-wise, but for a fully hand-sewn garment... Not bad, I think.
I'm now working on a similar dress in some blue silk dupion I got from Homecraft Textiles with my black canvas. Same neckline, longer hem and looser sleeves though.
The other coat I want to work on is the toile of the Simplicity 8262, but I don't have anything I can make a waterproof version in and the weather is getting too warm for that.
Oh, and the Lichen coat... which I still need to finish the toile of for myself...
Still. I'm trying to focus on one project at a time, even though my time to do a lot of this stuff is so limited at the moment.
The pattern packet I have - the Buckaroo Bobbins Range Coat - is far too big for me, even in the smallest size. And it's to the point that I have to drastically adjust the shoulders and armsceye.
When I first tried to work with the pattern, my lecturer advised using my body block to work out the torso and sleeves. I'm going to try that, adjusting with outerwear ease everywhere except the shoulders. (Messing with the shoulders just doesn't end well for me.)
I have to wait for a portable electric hotplate to arrive to actually make the waterproofing mix though. I don't want to make it indoors - mostly because of the fume issues, partly also because indoors all I have is a gas burner and I don't want an open flame anywhere near the turpentine.
But, I plan to construct the coat first (sans buttons) and then treat it, so I need to work on the pattern first.
I have the black canvas for it (cotton canvas; I couldn't find anywhere selling linen canvas for garments) and I have the ingredients to waterproof it.
The recipe I've been given is a 2:1:1 ratio of beeswax:boiled linseed oil:a solvent. (My chosen solvent is gum turpentine; it's apparently the least likely to aggravate my solvent sensitivity, and also the least likely to cause any skin irritation compared to mineral turps or white spirit.)
But before those, I'm moving on to deal with the duster coat, since the weather here is reaching the point where it's raining a lot, and also starting to warm up.
And I discovered the hard way a couple of weeks ago that my main jacket at the moment is only water-resistant. Not waterproof. (There's a crucial difference.)
I want to figure out a detachable hood as well, possibly via a detachable shoulder capelet.
The grey wool gauze dress is now in its pre-finishing wash! (Unfortunately, due to the neckline I can't post any photos until the lacing is done... But on the plus side, it did come out longer than the original, and the sleeves make it more wearable.)
I'm planning a linen version and a silk dupion version (the latter probably shorter and with a looser sleeve style, the former I'm planning to have full-length sleeves with laced forearms and a scoop neck with lace up placket.)
Australia | sleepy enby | inconsistent poster | I'm good at what I do, and what I do is make stuff and fall down research holes
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