hi fedi did i fuck up and burn this pcb trace

· SubwayTooter · 4 · 0 · 0

@skelltan if i was a nerd i wouldnt be asking that question bc i would either know when i fucked up or i wouldnt fuck up in the first place

@trwnh if u were a ned u wouldnt do this in the first place !!! nerd !!!!

@skelltan i regret doing it but im poor and trying to fix expensive headphones !!!

@trwnh what are you trying to do? is it just the solder pad that's the issue or the trace on the board?

@rtwx i have no idea what the proper terminology is but i was trying to desolder some old broken wire in prepararation for soldering new nonbroken wire

in retrospect maybe i should have just soldered on top of the existing solder? anyway i stopped to ask for advice before i fuck it up any further...

@trwnh ah k. I/m guessing soldering iron isn't hot enough? An yeah, in retrospect you're probably correct; it's fine to soldler on top if you heat it enough to sweat it together nicely.
I'm guessing that rins to what looks like an aux connector? It's a wire breakout? So if you get stick with that, you could solder onto the pins at the other end of the tracks, assuming there's room where it mounts to have the wire run under the board.
I am just guessing a lack of heat is making it difficult?

@rtwx no idea but i wouldnt know what correct heat is. i think it was 300 c but idk how long it takes to reach that temp? i may have not waited long enough?

i guess i'll have to try soldering to the L pin, yeah 🙃

@trwnh @rtwx 315c is the lowest you can typically solder at

It takes seconds for your iron to heat up

Proper heat depends on the type of solder you use and what type of board you're soldering to

If your iron doesn't have a temp control, don't worry about it.

@wizard my non-controlled 80W iron takes freakn ages to heat up. "seconds" is a broad generalisation really.

@rtwx @wizard mine says 60w snd its a cheapo one from amazon so *shrug*

@trwnh @rtwx yeah you might have to wait a bit for that one, maybe like 2 mins? I dunno honestly I've never used super cheap soldering irons before
@trwnh @rtwx The tip of your iron should melt solder like a hot knife in butter

@wizard yes exactly.

umm yeah, I do because it's biffed in a toolbox in my work van, and abused. It still lasts years.
I have used a good bench one with temp control, do recommend for sure. But cheap works :)

@trwnh yeah I would try waiting longer. I honestly don't know what temp they actually use but how does it melt solder applied directly to the tip? It should just eat it as you feeed it in, if there's a delay while it melts then it's not hot enough.

Hooter is better for most things, as it lets it melt completely much faster, rather than a cooler tip melting slower and imparting more heat to surrounding components and plastic things...

Give it 5 to 10 minutes to heat up and see I reckon.

@trwnh Hard to say, but the trace itself looks fine to me

@wizard idk terminology but it looks like i burned something and idk what im doing at all so im scared

@trwnh If you mean the pad next to the L, yeah it looks a bit scuffed but I'm pretty sure the pad is still there, you should be able to reconnect something to it and get conductivity.

@wizard i may have accidentally scraped off the pad

im not sure but something came off

@trwnh Was it a thin yellow-ish metal looking thing?
@trwnh Actually it doesn't have to be yellow-ish at all

Do you have a pic of what came off?
@trwnh Looking at it again, it does seem like it could be damaged, but it's kind of hard to tell.

Checking continuity with a multimeter is probably the way to go.
@trwnh I can't really explain in text form tbh, it's best to probably watch a vid about it

@wizard ok so i just tested and yep i burned the pad or whatever off, there's no continuity there. guess i'll just solder to the pin...

@trwnh oh shit rip

Honestly I dunno what to do in that case

@wizard i'm thinking wire directly to the L pin and just... deal with the jank of loosening the L pin if i ever have to rewire anything to it ever again?

@trwnh the one joint looks a little funky but the traces seem fine

@trwnh if you did then you can just use a jumper wire, nbd.

ive had to repair CNC control boards with jumper wires before because the traces lifted off the board when trying to repair axis control

@plausocks someone sent me a video on checking continuity so if it still works then i'll solder where intended, and if not, i guess i can solder to the other side where the pin is? eh.

@trwnh if you dont have continuity you just bridge the two solder points that the trace goes to by laying a wire into them.

obviously strip the insulation off the ends of the wire, but after its soldered in it should work as intended

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