Raoul Breugelmans @breugel@mastodon.social

Making jeans all the way back in 2000 on a Singer MonAmi and a Baby Lock, two little domestic sewing machines.

#rawdenim #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #homemadejeans #blastfromthepast #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

The concept of these Wrangler-inspired western jeans was to make them as clean on the inside as on the outside, without any unfinished or serged seams or edges.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #eurekajeans #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #justahobby #notforsale

The yellow size tag is made of paper reinforced with cotton mesh fused to the back, and can easily be torn off. Ready for a first wash! The second pair I made I'll keep as a kind of self-made "new old stock", to be worn maybe 10 or 20 years from now.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #brokentwilldenim #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadenos #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

The hardware on a pair of 111-Z Eureka Western jeans. A raw copper button, non-scratch copper plated rivets, and a vintage new-old-stock Talon semi-automatic zipper. As always, hardware from @kenji.

#jeanshardware #westernjeans #copperbutton #copperrivets #talonzipper #eurekajeans #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #justahobby #notforsale

The finishing of the waistband ends can be done in a lot of different ways. For these I used a method in which the chainstitch is sewn beyond where the waistband will end, and the extra waistband is cut leaving a 15 mm margin, which is then tucked inside the end of the waistband, and closed with a black lockstitch. This method was used a lot by Wrangler and some store brands. The advantage is that the waistband can be sewn onto multiple jeans consecutively without interruption.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #westernjeans #eurekajeans #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #justahobby #notforsale

Full front and back views of a pair of 70s Wrangler-inspired store brand-style western jeans.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #westernjeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Both pairs have been hemmed.
111-Z Eureka Western jeans. Made of non-selvedge sanforized broken twill denim.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #brokentwilldenim #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Done! 111-Z Eureka Western jeans.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #westernjeans #handcraftedjeans #selfmadejeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Attaching the two-piece waistband. Both the bottom and the top of the waistband are chainstitched this time. Belt loops ready to be attached.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #unionspecial #waistband #beltloops #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

For the second pair, I sewed the inseam first and then the outseams, which is the usual order for most jeans. It was easier than the first pair, which I did the other way round. Still, double lapped seams on both sides of the leg is not something I'll be doing very often.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

One reason for making these jeans was to see if I could make double lapped seams on both sides of the leg using this machine. Normally this is done on a feed-off-the-arm machine, which I don't have.
Managed to do it, but it was tough. I don't think I'll be doing this too often! I just did the first pair, sewing the outseams first and then the inseam. I'll try doing it the other way round for the second pair, and see if that's a bit easier.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #unionspecial #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Sewing the zipper in place and finishing up the front crotch. The zipper is a new-old-stock semi-automatic Talon. It's sewn on top of the denim -- the Wrangler way.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #zipper #talonzipper #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Creating the zipper fly. The Wrangler type fly involves a bit more work than Levi's or Lee type flies, but results in a very clean finish.

#rawdenim #westernjeans #zipper #zipperfly #talonzipper #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Making the front pockets. They are basically Wrangler-type pockets, but with some modifications.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #watchpocket #westernjeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

111-Z Western jeans. The back sides are done.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #ironbranded #leatherlabel #westernjeans #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

Finally found some time to start sewing new western-style jeans. Two identical pairs this time featuring non-selvedge broken twill denim, an iron-branded label, Talon zipper, and double lapped inseams and outseams.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #unionspecial #ironbranded #leatherlabel #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

New iron-branded leather labels.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #leatherlabel #leatherpatch #ironbranded #ironbrandedlabel #eurekajeans #eureka #justahobby #notforsale

Back pocket and leather label on another Wrangler-based storebrand-type of jeans I made many years ago. This time I'll be using a new iron branded label.

#leatherlabel #selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #brokentwilldenim #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

The parts and materials I plan to use this time. This pair will feature non-selvedge broken twill denim, a Talon zipper, and an iron-branded label on the back pocket.

#rawdenim #brokentwilldenim #talonzipper #leatherlabel #ironbranded #copperrivets #copperbutton #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale

On to the next project! This is a pair I made in 1994. The concept was to make a pair of jeans without any serged or unfinished edges. Both the inseams and the outseams were "double lapped seams", which was quite difficult as I only had the little domestic sewing machine in the last picture. Now that I have a two-needle chain-stitch machine, I'm about to make an improved version with a new take on this concept.

#selfmadejeans #handcraftedjeans #lappedseams #doublelappedseams #eurekajeans #justahobby #notforsale