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A list of dressmaking things I want to learn but might not get to in this course, for posterity:

- the mechanics of sleeve head curves and how they relate to end appearance
- how to draft a sleeve head from a given armsceye and vice versa
- how to fit a pinned sloper
- how to fit a pinned sloper to someone who isn't a thin femme person
- fitting mechanics for people who aren't thin femme people
- fitting mechanics for pants
- pad-stitching
- corsetry (mainly for support rather than aesthetics)

Speaking of my coat... I've almost finished stitching the first side of each of the pieces of binding on the sleeve seams (they're two-piece sleeves). Once that's done, I'll iron the fold into place and stitch the other side down, again by hand.

I'm getting really good at keeping the whip stitches even, though it does help to have the machine stitching on the seams as a placement guide. We'll see if I'm as even on the other side.

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i'm really starting to be pissed off by the "gates, bezos, musk etc. are evil, thus remove their wealth" line of arguments.

are these all pretty shitty fellers? yes. but that's the wrong line of argument to pursue.

even if each and every billionaire was a crown jewel of humanity, with ultimate goodness, humility, and decency bestowed unto them by a joint committee of all gods ever existed, even if they were literally incapable of hurting, we should still rid of billionaires and excess wealth accumulation.

the issue is not bad people accumulating money. it's simply some people accumulating all the money.

the issue is all this power and these resources must be controlled democratically and shared by the entire humanity.

it may sound like a small thing but from what i observe "billionaires do good, malaria!" is still the main thing that devolves arguments around wealth accumulation.

If you move between countries and expect to ever try to move a Google account between countries? Don't use Google Family Link.

I feel like more people should understand that saying you don’t know something is a way to gain credibility, not lose it.

I am also definitely making a proper needle roll and pincushion and Emery bag for myself too because nice things are good and proper tools are good and with how bored I'm getting at work, I might as well do some damn sewing.

(Yes, I could theoretically pick up more stuff to do at work, but it's not like they pay me more for that or let me do fewer hours, so I don't see a reason.)

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A lot of what I need is probably going to have to come from the Internet, like the fine wool flannel for the needle book pages and the Emery powder for the Emery bag.

But, I feel pretty confident I can get my hands on some clean wool roving or something for the pincushion. And a selection of good needles (Clover or John James are the ones I've heard are good; Tulip is amazing but really hard to get hold of sometimes).

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I have a new project on top of a cotton version of the eventual wool gauze vests, plus hand-sewing the binding onto my coat sleeves...

I want to make a really good sewing kit for a friend who has recently moved house and whose machines are in storage, and who wants to get back into sewing. (I still need to find out if my parents still have the old adjustable dress form that I never use...)

I'm going to make a needle book, emery bag, pincushion and some kind of little wallet to hold it all.

the coca-cola pride bottle maker not letting you put the types of people pride is supposed to represent on the bottles is peak rainbow capitalism

the problem with doing things, is that doing things releases a chemical in your brain that makes you want to do things, which means if you don't do things you don't want to do things

advertisers have had it so easy the last couple years.

2020: in these uncertain times, buy product.
2021: as life goes back to normal, buy product.

Amazon: Look at all these trees we plant in Brazil and electric delivery vans we're trialling!

Also Amazon: *shreds millions of perfectly good items a year in their larger warehouses because they didn't sell them quickly enough*

incidentally, the munich city council has officially decided to ask the UEFA if they could light up the stadium in rainbow colours for the hungary game

gonna be fun to see the UEFA explain why that is Absolutely Impossible, Just Can't Be Done, Can't Risk Upsetting Viktor Orban And Friends

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That shouldn't be necessary in a stretch fabric, but the gaping is still there...

I have the room to just chop a chunk out of the CF, rather than a wedge - there's enough hem to do that, I think. And I could potentially make the neckline less awkward to sew.

Or, I could transpose the body from my self-made T-shirt pattern and adjust the neckline accordingly...

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So, only got the smaller Fog Tee done, but that's fine. It's still rather looser-fitting than I'm happy with, but there's also an issue with the front neckline gaping oddly.

With a boat or slash neckline in wovens, one would usually use a brooch or something to pull the excess neckline fabric across, since the neckline is cut as wide as it is in order to be able to put the garment on (and to enable this without the need for a placket or other closure).

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Anyway, what's your favourite triphop song that isn't Teardrop by Massive Attack or Glory Box by Portishead? Mine is probably Honeythief by Halou, quintessentially gritty production, equal parts sad and sultry 10/10

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Also hoping I have time to try my hand at a lace-up wool gauze vest, but we'll see. I haven't yet decided how I'm going to go about that...

I'm thinking with that as well, it might be worth doing a partial liner in cotton or linen - just in the spots where I sometimes sweat, so the wool doesn't get itchy.

(It'll have to be lace-up because it's a woven, it won't stay put as an under layer otherwise.)

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But, I've realised there's no point trying to finish it for the party tonight, because said party is happening somewhere where it is going to be far too cold to remotely consider wearing it. I'm going to need my big wool coat, and that means speed-sewing more woollens.

I'm going to try out the smaller size of Fog tee, and if time allows I'm going to try double-layered leggings in wool and cotton jersey.

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Finally, the weekend.

I managed to get some of the binding on the black canvas coat sleeves sewn in - I have to do it by hand because my sleeves are too narrow for it to be done easily by machine.

(My kingdom for a sewing machine that can rotate its sewing direction 90 degrees - I have no idea how it would be implemented but it would be so, *so* useful. The stitching direction is most of the reason I have to do this by hand.)

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