Pinned toot

A list of dressmaking things I want to learn but might not get to in this course, for posterity:

- the mechanics of sleeve head curves and how they relate to end appearance
- how to draft a sleeve head from a given armsceye and vice versa
- how to fit a pinned sloper
- how to fit a pinned sloper to someone who isn't a thin femme person
- fitting mechanics for people who aren't thin femme people
- fitting mechanics for pants
- pad-stitching
- corsetry (mainly for support rather than aesthetics)

People do this all the time for the torso and/or for gloves, but the place where it's a real game-changer is legs because of how difficult and unintuitive they can be.

You can work out the shaping for a shirt with measurements, but no matter how much I measured my lower body I could not figure out how to change the J curve to get rid of the extra fabric in the front while also giving myself enough room in the back.

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(Also a good idea to draw in standard measurement lines and points - waist, hip, knee, hem, etc.)

This is the easiest way to get the shape of your lower body but in 2D, which gives you a direct comparison with your patterns, and will probably show not only why they don't fit right but also exactly how a given shape needs to change to work better.

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So, biiiiig tip for people trying to draft or work with pants patterns (whether or not the pattern is for your body shape, but doubly so if it isn't): make a taped lower body sloper.

Get a pair of leggings you don't mind cutting up (or undies and use scrap fabric to cover your legs). Apply duct tape to conform (gently!) to your body. Draw in seam lines in permanent marker (label the lines and/or use different colours). Cut, carefully.

Tech stuff, PC, case recommendations wanted 

Oh, also - the side fan is a problem, because it's on the left side of the case, which is not always the side of the desk with free airspace.

And the top fans are kind of useless at the moment, because the computer needs to sit *under* my desk so as to not block an entryway.

What would be really nice would be a case with a RH side 25mm fan, but I don't think I've ever seen any.

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Tech stuff, PC, case recommendations wanted 

I'm not super interested in doing water cooling at this stage (it seems too complicated) but I had the huge number of fans because at the time of buying this case, I lived in a cheap rental that was almost impossible to keep cool during summer. Overheating was a genuine problem.

Now I don't, so I feel like I could get away with fewer fans (and thus fewer hard-to-clean spots).

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Tech stuff, PC, case recommendations wanted 

I'm particularly unsure about the case.

The one I currently have fits five fans - one front, one back, two top and one large side fan.

It's impossible to clean the front fan. It's almost impossible to clean the back fan.

And there's so many nooks and crannies around the hard drive bays where dust and cat hair can collect that are damn near impossible to get at.

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Tech stuff, I need to overhaul my PC 

I'd go to a local PC shop and ask them to sort it out but because I have a handful of super specific requirements (CPU off the list of the ones that work well with RDR2, AMD GPU for Eternal) and the rest is just 'works nicely with those' I don't know how well it'll work out.

Also I have no idea what the state of stock levels and shipping times is like rn - I imagine slightly better but who knows.

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Tech stuff, I need to overhaul my PC 

I have no idea what parts are good though, other than that AMD CPUs are handling RDR2 better (at least, last I looked at a benchmarking video) and Doom Eternal is set up more for AMD's GPUs (which isn't to say it won't cooperate with Nvidia, it just won't look as cool).

I need a new case too - my current one's front panel has more ports non-working than working now, plus it's too hard to clean.

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Tech stuff, I need to overhaul my PC 

I need to overhaul my PC.

My graphics card has this weird crashing issue (possibly caused by undervolting? it's never been definitely worked out) that if it happens once, I have to go redo a bunch of custom settings in Radeon or it'll just keep happening.

Also it struggled like all hell with RDR2 and TBH, that and Starcraft 2 and maybe Doom Eternal are the main games I'd play on it (I have not even tried to install Eternal yet).

Might also try to reorganise my sewing nook. The hardest part is going to be getting the plastic drawers out of my wardrobe, because I frankly can't remember how I got them *in* there and they look too big to fit through the doors.

I probably won't move the fabric storage just yet, but I might be able to get myself to make use of all the lidded cane baskets I bought to make it more presentable.

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My birthday present to myself today is the best of all - a paid day off.

I got the taped slopers done last night (and in doing so used up all of the duct and gaffer tape but I can always get more) so today will involve tracing them off.

And then figuring out how to adjust a few patterns...

Which is a good day, tbh.

I still have my old body block, but it has some limitations and I'm not sure how accurate it is anymore.

Also it's only good for my torso - not very helpful for pants.

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Well, both my sewing machine and overlocker are in for servicing for at least 3 weeks, so...

Time for pattern work, I guess?

I caved and bought some sacrificial T-shirts to go with the sacrificial leggings (old and getting holes in) for making taped slopers and the eventual proper body form. With the taped slopers I'll be able to alter or replicate a couple of patterns that are just proving too difficult, and with the body forms I can do fittings and check patterns before making toiles.


I'm again thinking I need to actually buy some miso paste, even though I never use it all, because it's completely fine to keep it for ages as long as the container seals properly.

I'm sure dashi on its own is pretty good for you but miso would add something to it nutritionally.

(And it's a good addition to marinades if you're trying to boost umami. Red miso more so, but white miso will still help.)

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Tonight's after-dinner-snack - mixed up some white dashi (from concentrate) with a heap of onion and garlic powder, because making herby cheese on toast at this hour is Too Hard.

It's uh. It's real good.

One day, when I finally remember how to update my blog, I'll post a tutorial about cutaway pockets. I personally find them easier to sew than inseam pockets.

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Leggings with cutaway pockets sort of worked... I need to rework the pocket facing and cutout to properly accommodate the waist elastic so I don't lose as much pocket space, and I need to check that I have actually added seam allowance because I feel like the pocket is smaller than I was going for?

And I've realised I really need to do a contoured front waistband at least, otherwise it sits weirdly high at the front vs the back.

Literally the only option I have that doesn't involve trying to get there tomorrow morning to pick up the script is to get it faxed to my pharmacy.

Luckily the one I go to now has a fax machine, because my old pharmacy didn't have one since, quote, 'they can email scripts you know' (my GP's office refuses to do that for no obvious reason other than sheer stubbornness).

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My GP's office, in the middle of a pandemic: oh no mental health plans have to be done in person no getting out of it

My GP's office, in the middle of a pandemic: ummm if you want scripts mailed you need to supply a pre-stamped and addressed envelope, it's too expensive

My GP's office, in the middle of a pandemic: we're not doing electronic scripts it's too hard and expensive

In theory, I can then replicate the wrap top and blouse patterns using the sloper as a base, so that it actually fits nicely.

We'll see how it pans out in practice...

(I'm still not sure I'll ever get a shirt pattern down, mainly because collars confuse me a lot. But a blouse I can do.)

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