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#epoxy

3 posts3 participants1 post today
Public
Becky Barnes

My daughter had a few boxes of Girl Scout cookies left to sell, so we made up some "dragon-snails". People could adopt-a-snail (for the price of 3x boxes of cookies), and get 3x FREE boxes of cookies! Such a deal!

One (rear) had garnet cabochon eyes, and the other (front) had tigerseye cabochon eyes.

Two yellow-orange painted "dragon-snails" crafted out of epoxy clay, set into real seashells. The one in front has a long puppy-dog face, while the one in back is perked up curiously.
#dragonsnail#dragon#snail
Public
Barry Schwartz
The newly completed, very simple edge-grain cherrywood cutting board, now soaking in some mineral oil.

This is 13 one-by-twos of length 16 inches. By “one-by-two” I mean ¾×1½ inches, of course. 🤪 But sanded down. I haven't measured the actual thickness. I didn't get it perfectly even, actually. Maybe I will perfect it over time.

The wood wasn't perfect. There was one insect hole, for instance, despite that the wood had gotten past an inspector. And one piece had saw marks and definitely should have been rejected by an inspector, but I put it on the end. I covered such flaws with Liquid Glass and/or NicPro epoxy, then sanded it all down. Liquid Glass epoxy actually has FDA approval for direct food contact. NicPro epoxy does not, but I am practically sure it is equally food safe. The issue is whether hazardous chemicals would leach from the cured plastic.

The glue I used for the boards was Franklin Titebond III, which has FDA approval for "indirect food contact". In other words, for gluing together cutting boards. It also is DAMN GOOD GLUE for gluing together wood you are planning to clamp with pipe clamps.

I used a whole bunch of Bessey pipe clamps of the old fashioned sort you tighten with a socket wrench or similar. I did not bother to plane or sand the boards, because Titebond III makes them wet and pliable and the pipe clamps mash them into each other real damn good.

#woodworking #epoxy #epoxyResin
A shiny piece of thick caramel colored wood, that is actually 13 strips of wood glued together, forming stripes. The shininess is from a coating of clear oil. There is kitchen counter junk nearby and the top of a bent wooden walking cane can be seen.
#epoxyresin
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Barry Schwartz
Finishing the underside of the top step of the garage entrance.

I have painted the cross braces with NicPro epoxy. Leftover epoxy went on parts of the main boards. These boards are covered mostly with a mixture of NicPro epoxy and chopped fiberglass. The spaces between the boards are filled with NicPro epoxy pigmented glow-in-the-dark green.

The main boards are yellow pine 2×6 (with some planing to correct for curvature in a poor choice of one board). The cross braces are scraps of black ash, probably from production runs of 1×2 for cutting boards or 1×1 for pen turning. (I have made an edge grain cutting board from such scraps. The grain is open so I used tung oil to partly fill it in. But cherry or maple is better.)

I almost forgot: the very ends are covered mostly with Yieho UV resin. This makes up for some serious disasters I created along the way, involving overflows of epoxy onto the kitchen floor.

The curing rates of UV resins using the means advertised by the sellers is exaggerated. I suggest making ample use of sunny days. But what I used here is also very good. I used an expensive Lumenshooter UV flashlight, and instead of the garbage batteries that came with it I have two LBF 21700 5000mAh 3.7V Li-ion rechargeable batteries. Unlike the OEM batteries, these require no charger. They have USB-C ports for recharging. They are slightly larger, but fit. It is an unusual battery format, as is that of the slightly smaller OEM battery.

With this flashlight, curing usually takes seconds. The resin gets quite hot.

There are also Japanese wooden nails and CA glue in the connection between boards and braces. The nails are made of beech.

#epoxy #epoxyResin #UVResin #woodworking #alt4Me
#alt4me
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Barry Schwartz
I am clumsily constructing a new step, primarily of wood and epoxy. So far mostly wood. Yellow pine 2-by-6 and scraps of black ash. There are Japanese wooden nails you can see if I turn it over. I will partially fill the spaces between the boards with epoxy (having sealed the ends with UV resin) and reinforce the whole bottom with epoxy. Then I will turn it over and put on layers of epoxy.

I use Nicpro epoxy. The same chemical formula is available from an increasing number of other brands. It has fabulous properties, among which is that it degasses without a hitch in a vacuum chamber.

I generally do not use coating epoxies. They bubble fiercely. If I have a mold or for some light coating jobs I may use Superclear Liquid Glass. But even the 24-hour formula does not harden until near the end, and isn't as good at heated curing as is the Nicpro.

#alt4me #epoxy #epoxyResin #UVResin #woodworking
#woodworking
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Barry Schwartz
An 8×8×½ inch mild steel plate, embedded in an ample amount of clear epoxy, with colorfully dyed small daisies mixed into the epoxy. Dimensions are roughly 8⅜×8⅜×1½ inches. Mild steel plates are what the Titanic was made of. :) But mild steel is really just a more modern equivalent of wrought iron, the stuff of blacksmith-made horseshoes. Here I am using steel merely to have a flat heavy thing available, and embedding it in hard plastic mainly so it will not rust very much. #epoxy #epoxyArt #epoxyResin #steel #mildSteel #lowCarbonSteel #wroughtIron
A clear plastic block with small colorful flowers and a large steel plate embedded in it. There are some reflections visible in the plastic.
#WroughtIron
Public
TomKrajci 🇺🇦 🏳️‍🌈 🏳️‍⚧️

How to remove/demold a part from a fragile part. (Hint: You can create shear in more than one way, and it may be better than creating a peeling action with hammer and chisel.)

The blue Styrofoam that served as the form will be destroyed as it's removed from the fiberglass wingtip weel, but it's a one-off form/mold that lacked any taper.

(This is a follow up to universeodon.com/@KrajciTom/11 )

#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Wing #Epoxy #Fiberglass #Composite #Shear #Peel

No! You risk damaging the wing's surface this way. (OK, you could use a plastic/rubber wedge, but let's try a finesse method first...)
The long clamp squeezes on both ends of the fiberglass part...never touching the wing. This squeeze causes the base of the fiberglass part to bow outwards...shearing along the surface of the wing.
Only light force was applied to tighten the clamp...and the part easily popped off.
Public
TomKrajci 🇺🇦 🏳️‍🌈 🏳️‍⚧️

Making a custom wingtip wheel for my glider's right wing.

The bottom of the wingtip was covered with clear packing tape, then lightly waxed.

Hot glue temporarily attached the blue Styrofoam mold/form, which also contains the 60mm diameter roller blade wheel.

The part is made from seven plies of 7725 weave fiberglass that will be cut into a triangular shape after wetting with epoxy.

No vacuum bag, so this is a hand lay up. I had to use some small pieces of metal to coax the fiberglass to stay in the correct place.

The garage will be heated overnight so that the part cures, then some tugging and a rubber mallet should separate the part.

#avgeek #aviation #ElectricAircraft #ExperimentalAviation #homebuilt
#Glider #DIY #Wing #Epoxy #Fiberglass #Composite

The underside of the wing tip has been covered in clear packing tape, then waxed.
This is one ply of dry fiberglass, colored white, laying over a piece of green plastic sheet. Faintly visible through the fiberglass is a triangular pattern. After wetting seven plies, I will cut the fabric to that triangular shape. That shape will drape over the form and make the part in one step. The two edges of the open triangle will join and overlap along the trailing edge of the part, aft of the wheel.
Wetted fiberglass has a green tint. Scrap metal helps hold the fabric in the correct location. Strips of light brown fabric are Teflon coated fiberglass, which serves as peel ply. I'm using it to also help coax the fiberglass into the desired shape.
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